Like all the old cattle-trail cowtowns, ABILENE , 115 miles west of Lawrence on I-70, claims to have been the most riproaring of the lot. By the time legendary lawman Wild Bill Hickok became its marshal in 1871, the unruly behavior was already dying down, and little today reminds you of those raucous days. Doing its best, though, is Old Abilene Town , at SE Sixth and Kuney streets (May-Sept daily 9am-8pm; free), a replica of the town during its cattle boom. Gunfights and cancan performances are still held when tourists turn up, but the place has seen better days - most buildings are falling apart or boarded up - it's up for sale and no longer touted by the local tourist office.

These days, Abilene prefers to stress its connections with Dwight Eisenhower. The Eisenhower Center , 201 SE Fourth St (May-August daily 8am-5.45pm; Sept-April daily 9am-4.45pm), encompasses his boyhood home, with its origi-nal furnishings, the obligatory film show and many photos and papers on display in the spacious museum ($3.50). The former president and his wife are buried in the meditation chapel.

Abilene's visitor center is at 201 NW Second St (tel 785/263-2231 or 1-800/569-5915). Most of the town's budget motels are off I-70 at Hwy-15. The very basic Diamond , at 1407 NW Third St (tel 785/263-2360; $35-50), is an option. But the best rates are at the White House Hotel , 101 NW 14th St (tel 785/263-3600; up to $35), a slightly faded but clean motel not far from the I-70 exit.